News — bias

This is a pattern by Vogue for the evening or wedding ‘Frock with or without train features circular frills outlining the raglan armholes.  Long sleeves pointed over wrists and darted at shoulder, are optional.  Deep V-opening at back or higher back with inset.  Gathers at front below neck band which is buttoned at back.  Knotted whisker at throat is optional.’ Vogue offered a generous seam allowance of 5/8" at a time when pattern companies widely produced patterns with a 3/8" or 1/2" seam allowance.  For their exceptional designs, Vogue also set themselves apart in the commercial pattern industry by selling...

I've been away from blogging for some time now, yet the pattern planning and implementation has been going full-steam! For a little background,the year's first multi-size pattern issued was the 1934 Evening Gown with optional Sash Train for sizes 30" to 46" bust.  This was one of the first original 1930's patterns I ever bought back in fall of 2001! For Spring, I finished the 1948 Originator Peplum Dress for sizes 32" to 46" bust.  The ruffles may be finished with lace, or left plain-edged.  This pattern was generously made available by a customer in St. Louis!   I have...

Excuse my absence, been inundated with network issues and a dental procedure, as late.  As I touched on last week, it's often a better garment when cut on the bias versus the straight of grain.  This week, I demonstrate this in my improvement of a Big Four pattern, namely Vogue 8191 (OOP).  I cut the top front on the bias in two pieces, versus the one piece to avoid undesired asymmetry. Many may already know one side of a bias cut garment behaves differently than its opposite side.  Here, the armholes would have draped differently with the bodice cut in...

Picking up where I left up in 'Bias Junkie Part I', it's often a better garment when cut on the bias.  Take McCall 9906, the 1938 Day or Dinner Dress: The skirt is arranged on the fabric with grain.  It's fabulous already, right?!  Yet, I saw in it an opportunity so many of us dressmakers want - the potential to MAKE our own fabric!  As you may have seen in my blog 6 years ago, I set out to create my own ribbon gown using this pattern as I was inspired by an extant gown I bought in an antique...