News — 1920's

Think of the ever popular 1929 Evening Gown with Handkerchief Hem as origami in dressmaking. When sewing this design together, you will 'flip' the Lower Back and Side piece after joining it with the Front piece at notch '4'.  This ensures the piece will fold and drape to create sharp points in the hem as well as bring notch '6' in the upper edge of the Lower Back and Side piece to align with that on the Girdle.  Hopefully this paper mock-up demonstrates the point (pun intended):   Here is a creative twist put on this design as sewn by a...

From extreme isolationism to a newly industrialized nation, Japan was quickly becoming a modern society and a rising world power by the early 1900’s.  Western taste in fashion reflected the traditional dress of this ‘new-come nation’ and Butterick offered this Japanese kimono style for the home sewer (circa 1923):  As shown at far right, an option is given implying more of a peignoir style of lounge wear, very popular of this time.  Also by Butterick, this is a peignoir style also referred to as a kimono (or Pullman Robe)! Although these are both single size, hand-drafted patterns, they have both been...

Well not exactly Christmas, but it can feel a little that way when I receive patterns from some generous person who offers vintage pattern styles to make available via my services. These are four of many AMAZING patterns in Alyssa's collection (see her here at VintageorBust). A little run down on why I chose each one (click images for a larger view): Knowing I want to fill in my 1920's offerings (pre-1929) I asked for this 1928 McCall.   I saw in this one an opportunity for flattering and interesting lines packaged in a simple sheath style great for any sewing...

Based on 'Most Pinned' for August, the 1956 Swim or Play Suit & Skirt held a steady first among those re-pinning my patterns:   Out of nowhere, the 1934 Dinner or Street Dress followed! While the 1936 set of Hats still holds a top spot: ...and this time, the 1920's makes an appearance in the 1929 Schiaparelli-esque ensemble!

This week's patterning went a little inside out.   I finished the 1929 coat with a habotai lining color I wouldn't normally wear (it's not my red).  Since the weave of the coat fabric is so light and open, I did the lining in this hue to keep the outside appearance of the coat very bright.  Had I used my favorite deep claret, the coat would be much darker overall. The 'inside out' occurs before having dropped this lining in so light is shed on the construction and finishing methods I used.  Take a look: As I posted early on about...