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Nov. 7 - Nov. 11 The Week in Patterning - 48, Pattern Tour 1946 Dress with Cutouts
1940's cut-outs D40-4185 D40-6659 dress EvaDress Patterns McCall 6659 The Week in Patterning Storyboard Vintage Patterns
Alexandra ReynoldsProvided McCall came out with this design (6659 in 1946) first, the pattern in my previous post (below) could have been Butterick's answer to the dress with cut-out details at the shoulder. As in Butterick's design, the McCall has geometric cut outs along the shoulder line but in non-shirred manner which draws attention to the face and this one nicely frames the neck with strappy V-neck appeal! The cut-outs are faced for crisp, sturdy corners: Between the two designs, it may be curious how the draped short sleeve is so similar and the tendency to break up the mass...
Oct. 31 - Nov. 4 The Week in Patterning - 47, Pattern Tour & Review by Threads Magazine
1940's D40-4185 dress EvaDress Patterns The Week in Patterning Storyboard Threads Magazine Vintage Patterns
Alexandra ReynoldsThis little gem of a 1947 Butterick pattern is featured in Threads Magazine, issue #188 (Dec. '16/Jan. '17) Pattern Review on page 24. So, I am making this post the pattern tour for it! I issued it in my multi-size series last year for 32" to 48" bust: The cut-out details at the front of each shoulder create a flattering, almost sweetheart neckline. The original pattern instructs making these cutouts with narrow hand-rolled hems (illustrated below). I noted in my instructions to face the cut-outs with silk organza, using narrow seam allowances to get stable, crisp openings. There are...
Oct. 24 - Oct. 28 The Week in Patterning - 45, Re-sizing Patterns
1940's D40-359 dress EvaDress Patterns re-sizing The Week in Patterning Storyboard Vintage Patterns Vogue
Alexandra ReynoldsPeople ask about re-sizing patterns, so I thought I'd give a little about that here. The general rule I give in some of the patterns I offer is as follows (this example shows a 1947 Vogue Dress): To grade a pattern 'With a long straight edge, draw vertical lines down the length of each piece as shown in the accompanying illustration. Make sure each line is drawn to coordinate with the placement of the lines you draw on each adjacent pattern piece (click images below for larger view). Cut along these lines. Then, take the total difference between the...
Oct. 17 - Oct. 21 The Week in Patterning - 44, The Perforations mean...
1940's EvaDress Patterns pattern perforations SE40-1519 The Week in Patterning Storyboard Vintage Patterns
Alexandra ReynoldsI respond to 'Unsuccessful search terms' I observe in my web site admin page by filling in what I can throughout the site. This week, 'perforation meaning' was one such term, so this is a post to address just what those little punched markings in your vintage pattern can mean. The first individually packaged sewing patterns marketed for the home sewer came in the form of un-printed, pre-cut tissue pieces. Each piece was factory punched with perforations indicating the pattern piece letter or number (a few pattern makers, such as Vogue punched the entire name of the piece into...
Oct. 10 - Oct. 14 The Week in Patterning - 43, Pattern Tour
1940's EvaDress Patterns Negligée The Week in Patterning Storyboard Vintage Patterns
Alexandra ReynoldsIn constant effort to keep pattern prices down, I eliminated two of the 16 pieces this original McCall pattern had. Since the long and short sleeve pieces were identically shaped, I superimposed the two sleeve styles so my version has 14 pieces (thus, reducing paper and ink cost). For as much wearing ease in this style, McCall did some clever moves to shape and fit the design in an overall flattering manner. Using a curved shoulder yoke piece at the front allows soft gathering of the bodice front over the bust. The omission of darts keeps the kimono style very...